This Retro Dessert Was Once Known As 'Chocolate Mayonnaise'

And it's making a comeback in American kitchens.

Caitlin Bensel; Food Stylist: Torie Cox

What's old is somehow always new again at some point. Whether fashion, food, or furniture. Ikea recently relaunched selected retro designs from the 1950s to 1980s, and the food world is similarly reviving retro recipes. Baked Alaskas and black forest cake are back on restaurant menus, and we’ve noticed yet another vintage dessert making the rounds—both in home kitchens and professional ones. Hint: It’s a French staple that, while not too complicated to make, does require some finesse…

Chocolate mousse is back, and when served in vintage glassware with a soft swoop of freshly whipped cream, it’s easy to sink into the Mad Men vibes of it all, and understand why we still love this dessert.

Although chocolate mousse dates back to the late 1800s, it rose to popularity in the United States in mid-20th century, around 1950, when a best-selling Betty Crocker cookbook published a recipe for chocolate mousse made with canned chocolate syrup.

Later, in 1961, Julia Child published Mastering the Art of French Cooking, which included her more traditional French rendition of the dessert—i.e. no syrup. (Here she is demonstrating the technique. It’s a fun watch.) In the wake of that book and her popular cooking show, classic French dishes made in her signature and approachable style, including mousse, took off stateside.

Once a stylish staple of bistros and dinner parties alike well into the 70s, chocolate mousse then slowly went out of fashion. Was it the raw egg whites? (If you’re worried about consuming them uncooked in the mixture, there’s always pasteurized whites.) Perhaps the low-fat diet culture of the 80s, and subsequently the 90s low-carb diet boom made the rich, indulgent dessert passé toward the end of the century. No matter why it disappeared, we’re glad it’s back.

Chocolate mousse was initially called "mayonnaise de chocolat." Although the dessert feels like the kind of effortlessly fancy thing to come from a storied French chef or restaurant, it was actually created in the late 19th century by the famous French painter Henri Toulouse-Lautrec.

Caitlin Bensel; Food Stylist: Torie Cox

Unlike Julia, we skip the egg yolks, which she whips by hand until pale and thickened before cooking them on a bain marie. We also ditch the strong-brewed coffee for instant espresso powder and we don't use butter—this is a preference, not a calorie saver, as we fold in plenty of whipped cream.

As with any chocolate mousse, we suggest using good chocolate, it’s the star of the show. Semisweet and bittersweet are preferable, as both help keep the dessert from becoming too sweet. A good dollop of whipped cream on top is also highly encouraged. A finishing flurry of chocolate shavings is always nice, but a sprinkle of flaky salt over top is also welcomed.