Recipe: Black sugar Anzac biscuits

Contributing writer

April 25 in Australia and New Zealand was Anzac Day, a commemoration of the costly 1915 beach landing in Gallipoli, Turkey, during World War I. Even today, people talk of the event as a key factor in both countries starting to see themselves as distinct from the larger British Empire.

One simple way to mark the day is to make biscuits similar to those sent to troops or used in fundraising. "Anzacs" are a sugary cookie, the ingredients for which were still available during wartime rationing — they don't contain eggs, for example. Most importantly, they travel and last well, perfect for transporting halfway around the world (though they’ll keep just as well if the farthest they go is the back of your pantry).

For my recipe, kuromitsu (brown sugar syrup) replaces golden syrup, and two varieties of cane sugar add depth and make for a slightly softer cookie. You might think that the trend of adding umami or spice to sweets, popularized by Milk Bar's Cristina Tosi, is the latest fad in baking. There's evidence, though, that it has been going on in Japan for more than half a century. The moreish unagi pie is a Hamamatsu delicacy that folds powdered eel and sugar into crunchy, laminated pastry for that subtle extra something you can't quite put your finger on. In this recipe, adding a dash of (optional) dashi and darker sugar does the same. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary and serve with tea.

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